Another one of those days…

7:30 – woke up

7:40 – made dhalia for breakfast

7:50 – had bucket wash, was pretty cold as I hadn’t allowed the dangerous looking water heater to do its thing for long enough

8:10 – got dressed, tried to make myself look less like death

9:00 – got to the office, was told we were leaving at 9:15

9:40 – left office

9:45 – covered eyes and squeaked as was sure we were going to hit truck head on

9:46 – realised hadn’t hit truck and was still alive

9:55 – car slowed down to get over one of sleeping policemen (yes they do have them here, they’re sleeping police men on steroids as you have to slow down to about 1 mph to get over them or risk major damage to your suspension). Saw child at the side of the road having a poo also picking his nose, noted child had a resolute expression of ‘yeah I’m having a poo and picking my nose, what of it?’ and poo was alarmingly green.

10:10 – got to RTP, told VIPs would be turning up at 10:15

10:20 – got asked if I’d present the findings to the group – was assured English would be fine but to speak slowly

11:10 – got started as VIPs turned up

11:45 – did presentation, got told it was good (better than fine I feel which is high compliment indeed)

12:30 – VIPs went to lunch

12:50 – went back to meeting

13:00 – stomach thought throat had been cut, relieved to find it hadn’t been

14:00 – broke for lunch

14:30 – found a touch me not plant, got a bit too excited – told everyone, they weren’t that impressed

14:45 – went back into meeting

14:46 – goats gate-crashed meeting

15:23 – realised I actually understood what someone had in said in Hindi and went ‘ah-ha’ rather too loudly during the meeting. Got some strange looks.

16:30 – meeting finished

16:35 – watched post meeting badminton

16:50 – got back on the road to the office

17:30 – got back to the office

17:45 – Anadita came round and made delicious rotis in 5 minutes, something I hadn’t achieved during 40 minutes the day before and I got covered in flour – she remained clean as a whistle

17:55 - got told I look like barbie!?!?!?

18:30 – made curry and jeera rice which was edible

20:00 – tried to make tea and the gas bottle ran out

21:00 – uploaded photos – realised I need to work harder on my tan

21:10 – wrote blog

21:12 – squashed mosquito

All in all another normal day in India

Communications

It is true to say that communications can be a little challenging at times, my Hindi being atrocious doesn’t help the matter. Even my new flat mate’s is better than mine! I can honestly say that the words just don’t want to stay in my head; as soon as I’ve repeated them they’re gone again. I know two versions of OK – which I think you’ll agree is pretty useless and a couple of other bits.

Luckily my much better educated and obviously far more intelligent work colleagues speak much better English than I can imagine speaking Hindi. I have also been perfecting the English speak slowly and clearly technique, as we a notoriously bad at speaking other languages. I have noticed though that under a touch of stress or if things are going exactly to plan I starting speaking a little mockney and I have no idea why this happens, I suppose it’s a little better than my Bristol accent I sometime adopt, however neither are helpful when in the middle of a sentence you change accent and really confuse matters!

Below are a couple of conversations for cringe worthiness and hopefully a little giggle.

When shopping for toilet roll:

Me: Do you sell toilet paper? (To a man who only speaks Hindi) Him: Huh? Me: T-O-I-L-E-T –P-A-P-E-R. He calls a kid over who speaks a bit of English. Me (to kid): Toilet paper? Kid: Huh? Me: You know, loo roll (whilst gesturing a roll of paper) Kid: you want a blue roll of paper?

I gave up and went on my merry way with just my powered milk...

Let this be a lesson – when trying to explain a foreign concept (such a toilet paper in India) do not start introducing foreign words such as loo that they have never, ever heard of!

There was a sign on the board stating that all staff are invited to go to RTP (Rural Technology Park) for the flag ceremony

Me: ‘Ah is this for Republic Day?’

Young lady: ‘Yes it’s for the flag ceremony’,

Me:  ‘What’s that?’

Young lady: ‘A flag is a coloured cloth for the country – you know a flag’ (Whilst gesturing waving a flag)

Me:  ‘No I know what a flag is, what is the ceremony?’

Young lady: ‘For Republic Day’!

Good reasons to get a flat mate

1. Stop me talking to insects – it always follows the same patter, me asking what it is, then critiquing its appearance (what’s that for? Well you’re not very attractive etc.), then fetching a cup and the dust pan to chuck it out and asking it to tuck its legs in. I’ve just realised actually that I’ve been asking them in English which is why it may not work out every time as they simply don’t understand me, what a faux pas.
2. Stop me talking to Geckos –greeting it like it’s an old friend and then asking it to stay still so I can take a photo. They never stick around long enough for to take a photo, again probably because I’m asking them in English. I bet if I asked in Hindi they strike some amazing poses.
3. Stop me eating Bourbon biscuits – I don’t even like them I don’t know why I’m eating them!
4. Stop me dancing around the flat like a fool.
5. Stop me making bad jokes and laughing at them. Actually scratch that, obviously I will carry on doing that but I’ll have an audience so I won’t feel quite as much of a loon.

Unfortunately her train is delayed by 11 hours as the trains in India cannot penetrate fog outside of Delhi and then it was delayed further for no apparent reason. I have spent a productive day dancing, seeking out insects whilst trying to take photos of geckos and eating biscuits. Who said my one day a week off was going to waste?!

An introduction to the people of Deoghar

I don’t think people, as a rule, do this enough - praise other people. I have heard on many occasions people saying how unfriendly people can be when they are on their travels. This also seems to be mainly, but not solely, connected to capital cities. You ask for directions and someone ignores you. Well having thought about this I think it’s pretty obvious really, you, with your giant rucksack who are lucky enough to have days and days off work are asking someone, who is probably busy going somewhere in a language they don’t understand where to go. Put yourself in their shoes…you’re busy, just want to grab a coffee and a wee before you brave the ever burgeoning travel system in said city and yet another person is there, giant rucksack full of rubbish they don’t need, getting in your way, can’t find the building directly in front of them shouting at you in a language you don’t know. I’d be pretty grumpy too.

Sorry I digress. The reason I wrote this blog is thankfully I have the complete opposite problem. The people here in the little town of Deoghar are, more often than not, delightful. Where else could you be walking down the street and someone pulls up on their motorbike to give you a snippet of information about the thing you’re trying to arrange/purchase and then they’re off. I don’t know their name nor have I ever seen them again but they’re jolly helpful. Spotting me isn’t that difficult before you get concerned that I’m being stalked.  I think their deduction prowess would be questioned when trying to find Wally.

I was also stood at the shop trying to buy groceries when a gentleman spotted me from the top of the street and came down to help me in translations, he didn’t want to buy anything he just wanted to help me. This also happens when I’m buying vegetables from the side of the road. I have got the hang of asking for things and the weights but numbers still defy me. So paying for things I’ll more often than not be referring to my little notebook of numbers (how sad) when I’ll hear someone shout – that’s 42!

Sometime it can go a little wrong; numbers of people for example can hinder rather than help. Rickshaw drivers attract a lot of attention so it can get to the point that you don’t know where on earth you’re going or how much it’s going to cost but you’re shoved into a rickshaw and off you pop, it usually works out and I get to the right destination, hey 9 times out of 10 isn’t bad!

So thank you people of the little town of Deoghar, I appreciate your help very much.

Lets strategize!

I am pleased to say I feel like I’ve settled in at work. I have some amazing colleagues who strive to bring a better future in the communities they work in and believe me they work tirelessly. All of this whilst amusing me, giving me recipes and patiently translating for me when required.

I have learnt a little about the difficulties they face in bringing about change and how this can be combated. I have been lucky enough to go out to the field and meet some lovely women who volunteer in their local communities who were not only welcoming but had some amusing stories to tell. One involved a condom being mistaken for a balloon; I think you can guess the rest…

I am currently working on the strategy for the Project Management and Monitoring and Evaluation Systems for the organisation. Some would argue don’t fix what isn’t broken but I’m hoping that the changes that I implement will bring benefits for the organisation. Fortunately I have finally managed to stabilise my thoughts into something I can actually implement, or at least explain to someone else without the dreaded: and then we can…, oh yeah and I forgot about this…, and then if we do this then…etc. etc.

The same couldn’t be said for last week when my brain reached saturation point and ground to an almighty halt. The irony of a Project Manager who can’t plan doesn’t escape me. I’m not sure if other people have felt the same but the thoughts were whizzing around my head at around 1000 miles an hour and a new idea would pop in, over take the first one and carry on round and round until I got to the point where I had made four lists all of which were the same, different order but the contents remained unchanged.

What assisted me with getting my thoughts on track was speaking to one of my colleagues and him patiently nodding and smiling in the right places until I finally got my act together. I think sometimes we get so wrapped up in the ‘I’m fine’ syndrome that you can’t actually admit when you’re struggling. Well I can’t anyway because I’m a stubborn as a mule. I’ve also realised that my hand gestures get so over exaggerated when I am trying to explain something that isn’t fully sorted in my head that I looked like I was trying to land aircraft in the office.

Unfortunately my brain with its odd sense of humour introduced the Dry Bones song in my head so instead of the bones being connected the Business Case is connected to Organisation Strategic Plan etc. It’s a sad day when that happens so perhaps I should be working out more rather than just sitting in the flat being odd.

Anyway we’re planning activities tomorrow so please keep your fingers crossed that my hands don’t start jazzing and in a fit of panic I start humming Dry Bones at him or even worse try and teach him the song.

Feeling better...

I fell down the void smack bang into unwell. So let this be a lesson… do not blog before you know the full facts. I am however feeling much better. Well I have recovered enough to go into work. It is quite surprising how quickly the flat can disintegrate into chaos when you’re not keeping on top of things. I have at least 3 loads of hand washing to do (humph!), washing up and rounding up of odd looking insects to release into the outside world; their names definitely weren’t on the list.  

My colleagues have been amazing checking how I am and asking after me. I realise they think I’m a bit odd as I haven’t gone to the doctors and I won’t, not yet anyway. If it continues then obviously I will do the sensible thing but I have a feeling that I need to choose my battles around here. If I go to the doctors and start taking antibiotics too early I may regret it later on down the line and let’s face it I am going to have to toughen up.

What was the most unfair thing about being ill? Having a temperature and dreaming about food – ah food, glorious food. Amongst those dreams were: fresh bread cut into thick slices, toasted with a thick spread of butter, steamed asparagus with a poached egg and grilled pancetta and the one thing I am guaranteed not to get out here – steak. I think the brain, or perhaps it is just my brain, has an odd sense of humour sometimes.

Urgh!

After a slightly sentimental message yesterday I am feeling terrifically sorry for myself today. I do not feel well. I am not ill, just unwell. So I guess I am in the void of well and ill. It is the second time I have felt unwell since arriving in India, the first was on 1 January as I think I had a sympathy hangover (for all of you beer swilling bacon eating friends out there) and today.

I do not think it’s fair that I don’t feel well – I should be feeling tip top. I was that worried about becoming depressed or actually ill that since arriving in India I have taken much better care of myself. I am now a ginger tea drinking, yoga practicing, exercising, vegetarian – oh dear god… I’m a hippy! I feel even worse now.

I promise I won’t be blogging every day and that my next blog will be informative or witty or something – I just feel a bit urgh today.

The difference between living and existing…

So I have been in India for a month. I came to realise at the beginning of this week that a transformation was taking place. Yes I’m still being stared at and I fear for some of the men on bikes, but they have learned the art form of riding whilst looking backwards at me - I don’t mind that. I still have children following me round the market and strangers waving at me asking me if I am Katy - I don’t mind that either. The transformation is taking place within me.

I was dispatched from England four days after the will she/won’t she month long visa debacle, to arrive in Delhi, spend three days there and then find myself on a 26 hour train ride to Deoghar, where I am to stay for the next year. As anyone would, I got on with things, I washed my clothes, I found food, I cooked said food with varying success (the incident with the aubergines has meant I won’t be going there again for some time!) I cleaned myself and the flat and even took a photo of, and named,  a cockroach all the while dragging myself to work on a daily basis to stare wide eyed at project files pretending to know what I was doing.

Only this past week something has changed – I know where to buy fruit and veg and to avoid the meat stalls. I even know where to buy milk and chocolate, how to ask how much something is and then look dumb founded at the response as I only know the numbers 1, 2, 10 and 20 oh and 100. I almost know what I am doing at work.

When you move into any new place you have to get the lay of the land, where the shops are, how long it takes to get to work and more importantly where your local is. This is done without fuss or even really noticing that you’ve done it. I however have become acutely aware of how I’m feeling and this transformation has come as a welcome surprise, I didn’t really think penny dropping moments happened that often but here they do. I can honestly say I spent my first two weeks counting how many weeks and DAYS I had left here. That has stopped thankfully. Obviously every shred of me misses people but in order to survive this I’m going to have to live, I can’t live in December 2010 when I was with my friends and family, or December 2011 when I will see them again. I am living for the here and now, to enjoy and embrace this adventure that I decided to take on. That was one of my many penny dropping moments.

December update - in January!

Just so we're clear - I'm not going mad, this update was sent by email on 20 & 21 December.

Hello Chums – 1920’s KT is back!

I thought I’d send this update early, but actually it’s not that early as I haven’t had t’internet! Anyway a lot has happened in a week… (BTW before you start reading this it’s rather long)

I arrived in Delhi safely after a rather lovely flight even if it was marred by the fact I was a little hung over! (No surprises there then!) My room was basic but clean which is the most important thing. Delhi is a crazy place and I proved a nervous passenger whilst squeaking in the back of rickshaws. It also smells and its winter, summer is going to be a sensory overload. Visiting the doctors was an interesting experience as I was shown out of the back (insert pun about being shown of the back passage in India here) so I could experience a stair case that was put in by the British! Thanks mate but I would have preferred the safe option over the tiny spiral stair case that was built for midgets.  I’m proud to announce I didn’t freak out and have an attack of vertigo.

Some interesting things I found out:

·         My hair is going to fall out at some point – In clumps. No one can explain this phenomenon and I’m hoping it only happens in Delhi but it seems to happen during seasonal changes. Oh what fun!

·         20,000 people live in the President’s house… well I thought it was interesting!

·         There are 3.3 million NGOs in India – only an estimated 80% actually exist.

·         Rough Guide doesn’t think much of Jharkhand and states ‘Bandits and Naxalites are active in these areas, and around Parasnath, so it’s vital to check the security situation before venturing out, and to avoid travelling at night throughout the state.’ Oops - I didn’t know that. (It’s alright mummsie, Deoghar barely made it onto the map so they won’t find me here!)

I did meet a prophet of doom who gave me an interesting update just before I got on the train which included the fact there are gangs that work the trains that poison people and then steal all of their belongings. They befriend individuals and then give them food or drinks and the next morning they’re dead! Safe to say I spoke to no one and took my own snacks/drinks. J I’m not going to tell you the rest but most of this is common sense and I wouldn’t go wondering in most places at night alone so I’m highly unlikely to do it here.

Anyway enough of the not so cheery stuff… following my 26 hour train ride (and yes the toilets were squat toilets on the train – fun!) I am now in the ‘Wales of India’ all is good, I am happy in my little flat and I will be living with another volunteer from January who is coming over from the U.S. This can only be a good thing as I think the loneliness (or rooneriness) would take over and I’d be back in March with my tail between my legs! I have attached photos of the flat and my western style toilet – sorry to disappoint you Mr Cox.  The bed and pillow are rock hard and I have a bruise on my hip which I can only attribute to lying on my side in bed. This must mean one of two things – I need to lose weight in order to lessen the strain, OR really, really, really deep down I am indeed a princess – I’m going for option two! J

I have been out and about, buying food and taking in the local scenery. Apparently it is a spectator sport watching me buy fruit and veg, even the police turned up to have a look. The enforced vegetarianism is continuing as when you ask for chicken – you get a live chicken! I know there are some you who think I’m a complete hypocrite as I am unable to kill, gut and pluck my food – you are correct and I surrender. I haven’t got a clue what to do with goat and I don’t think I like it anyway from what I remember so that’s off the menu too. Thank goodness for a very nice fillet steak that I had before going away as I will remember it fondly.

I went for a walk around the Tower Clock market yesterday which also drew some attention including one gentleman who nearly fell off his bike! It’s actually quite an odd feeling, I know there is no malice behind the staring but it is strange to be the town spectacle… being a good 6 inches taller than most people doesn’t help.

I was hoping to get a mobile internet stick for my laptop but it’s not as easy as it sounds – in order to get a SIM I have to take copies of my Resident Permit and registration, a passport photo and a copy of my passport and visa, the mobile internet is more difficult and from the people I asked yesterday I don’t even think I will be able to get one here (mind you the standard of my Hindi I was probably asked for a hamster on a washing line!)

I have started work and there is a lot to do, but they seem very pleasant.  They have asked me to concentrate on a project starting January and collation of data for a Primary Health Care project running over 9 districts.

Due to the fact that this update was quite frankly rubbish and a wee bit boring, I will make sure I send irregular updates… unless you’re interested in monitoring and evaluation of Health projects and spec’ing out a giant MIS. I was over joyed to hear that they have 9 systems running currently (ah the joys of organic growth).

Drop me a line if you’re thinking of me (single tear rolling down my lonely face and yes this is a test people!) Only joking, I’ll keep updating FB and the first of the 365 days of photos will be uploaded. If you think that anyone else will actually be interested in my rubbish update, please forward it. If you didn’t like it just quietly delete it and laugh along when I start talking about them when I get back. Thank you J

Miss you and thinking of you. Have a very Merry Christmas, wishing you love and happiness in 2011.

And so the blogging starts...

Well I have given in and decided to write a blog. There were many reasons, one being that fact that if I do send out a monthly update it is going to take hours to read it (I was never very good at getting to the point!) and hopefully with a blog it will allow you to read it at your own leisure, or not as the case maybe.

For those of you who don’t know, I am living and volunteering in India for a year. To be more exact I am living in a small town called Deoghar in the state of Jharkhand and working at an NGO called the Network for Enterprise Enhancement and Development Support (NEEDS).

NEEDS was founded in 1998 by Mr. Murari Mohan Choudhury and Mr. Tanay Chakroborty with a mission to improve the standard of living of the Scheduled Tribes, Scheduled Castes, and other marginalised groups. The vision for the organisation is:

All people are achieving their full potential; leading healthy, productive lives; and living within their community and society at large in an atmosphere of rights based empowerment, equality, dignity and respect.

For more information on the organisation please visit the website: http://www.needsngo.in/index.htm

So what am I doing here? I have been accepted by the organisation to assist in the strengthening of the Monitoring and Evaluation systems and the Project Management systems, hence my job title of Planning, Monitoring and Evaluation advisor (PME advisor)

When starting out on this journey I decided that there were a number of professional and personal objectives I wanted to reach, some of them are too personal to share but those I am happy to share are:

·         develop a sustainable system for the organisation which can maintained when I depart;

·         gain experience with a well-established NGO;

·         gain experience in Development;

·         train others in the skills I have been lucky enough to develop;

·         see a bit of the world;

·         take myself out of my comfort zone;

·         meet and hopefully make friends with, new people.

I am not going to kid myself that I – Katy Maguire – am going to save the world, but I don’t think any one person is capable of that (except fictional characters perhaps – but even I know they’re not real!) Hopefully I can make a small difference in assisting people that are working towards change, for the benefit of others.

After a challenging 2010, I am going forth into what is promising to be a challenging 2011. Hopefully I can make this blog interesting enough for you to read about the year I am experiencing and doesn’t sound like a teenage diary full of angst! We can also monitor (see what I did there!) the progress of my objectives. As I have already been here for a month I am going to post my last update which was sent out in December and go from there.

As always – I hope 2011 brings you happiness and love.